The Plumber's Choice is a 1 in. Polypropylene Offset Trap.
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After installing a new bathroom sink, the drain tailpiece doesn't line up with the trap coming out of the wall.I think flexible accordion hoses are in violation of code.I live in California.My tailpiece has no threads.The trap has male threads.What is the best way to do this?
I have a flexible accordion piece from the old sink, which fits on the trap, but it has male threads on top, so it connects to the tailpiece.I don't understand how those flexible pieces work.
The photos posted above were helpful, since a lot of people don't know what's available.I wanted to post photos of what I did and the components I used.
The first thing to do is come out of the wall with a wall tube.If you have at least several inches in the wall drain, cut the long side so it slides into the drain tube.
There are two types of J-traps, one with a threaded slip-joint fitting on each end and a "repair" one that has a slip joint on the longer leg.You can use either one for your piping.
How far above or below the drain connection the tailpiece is depends on two factors.
The drain connection is close to the side of the tailpiece.The J-trap can be used to connect another wall tube cut to the appropriate length.To make a turn, the other end connects to a 90-degree elbow.A reducing washer can be used to adapt a tailpiece to a drain piping.The components pictured here are from Home Depot.
The other Vanity has more horizontal distance and less vertical.To get more displacement down, I connected the longer leg of the J-trap to the wall tube, so I could cover the horizontal distance on the way back up.The elbow didn't make it to the bottom of the tailpiece, so I had to use a scrap piece of a wall tube to attach the elbow.
If you need more vertical distance, you can use an extension tube, which has a threaded slip-joint fitting on one end, and connect it between the wall tube and the J-trap.I tried this first and realized I didn't need the extension tube.
If it leaks after you tighten everything up, and you have water on top of the reducing washer on the tailpiece, it means your drain assembly isn't waterproof against the sink.If you want to prevent it from cracking the sink, you may need to tighten it or remove it.
The same thing happened under my bathroom sink.I took a picture of how I solved it.I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot, so the first elbow off the sink is 1.5.To get the smaller elbow to fit, I used a compression washer in the larger elbow.Works well!You should be able to do the same thing if you use the larger pieces whenever you have to and use smaller pieces with the compression washer.
You will need to provide an offset on the vertical if the p-trap doesn't swing enough to align with the tail piece.
Changing the p-trap to a hub connection type will allow me to reuse the existing union 90 and install two 45 elbows on the vertical.
Adding a bit of straight pipe and shortening the drain tailpiece should be enough to complete the connection.At least one of the circles won't be blocked by the wall pipe.
As far from the wall as you can, you cut the piece out.You need a female/female connection, a straight piece, and a trap.The straight piece is the only thing that can be cut.When you angle your trap, you need to cut it so that it is under the tail.Just extend the tail down.
Home Handyman's post shows how not to do it.The P trap is mounted backwards.The P trap goes under the drain.The P trap outlet is sloped.The idea is that the drain water hits the P trap at a high rate to help clean it.The outlet side is less likely to hold debris and keep the drain clear.That speaks to credibility.
For a reason, there are maximum heights per code.Between the wall outlet and the P trap.The "U" will drain in the second layout.It will be a slow drain and sure to get stuck over time.The second case has water going up from the P trap to the outlet.The 90 degree elbow drops the P trap outlet below the wall outlet in the first case.
I have used them, but never posted to a site like this.I feel compelled to do something.The pipes weren't lined up for me to use the P trap.I was off by a bit.I found a trap.I have installed it.I hope it works.It is a cheap and easy solution to this problem if it works.The Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Polypropylene-Form-N-Fit-Flexible-P-Trap can be found at homedepot.com.