There are many different types of evergreen trees, but they can be divided into two categories: branching in whirled pines and firs and random branching junipers, cedar, yew, and hemlock.Regardless of the type of evergreen you are dealing with, there are some common measures you should take, but you can also use unique methods based on the tree's habitat.Pruning is more of a choice than a necessity for evergreens in most cases.Increased susceptibility to diseases and bare spots can be caused byPruning too often.
Step 1: Cut away dead branches as soon as possible.
During the dormant period or just before the major growth period, seasonalPruning evergreens for shape or size should be done.You can remove a broken branch, no matter the season, if you see it.You can find information on evergreen diseases in your area by contacting a local agricultural extension office, a tree nursery, or an arborist.
Step 2: Take care of your pruners before and during trims.
You should wipe the evergreen branches down with a rag after using your pruners.This will remove dirt and make sure you don't transfer evergreen diseases.When moving from one tree to the next, wipe down your pruners.Pruners should be wiped down when you are cutting branches that may be sick.
Step 3: You should use the same tools.
A good pair of loppers or hand pruners is all you need.You may also want to use handheld hedge clippers or a hand saw for shearing.If so, clean them with rubbing alcohol.When you switch trees or cut a part of a plant that may be sick, always wash your tools before and after using them.
Step 4: When you remove a branch, leave the collar behind.
The branch collar is a slightly thicker ring at the point where a branch emerges from a trunk or limb.Instead of cutting the branch completely flush to the trunk, leave this small collar behind.Doing so will make the trunk less susceptible to diseases.
Step 5: Make 3 separate cuts to remove thick branches.
If you attempt to cut the branch at the collar, you may cause damage to the trunk or limb.The bottom half of the branch is about 30 cm out from the collar.The top half of the branch is further out from the first cut.The branch will break between the cuts.Cut off the branch at the collar.The bark will be less likely to peel if the weight of the branch is reduced.
Step 6: If the current leader is damaged, train a new one.
The leader of most evergreen trees is the branch where a star is placed on a Christmas tree.If the leader becomes broken or damaged, you can train a nearby branch to take its place: If possible, trim the damaged leader to about 2 inches above its lowest side shoot.Place a healthy branch near the leader, bend it upward, and tie it to the old leader and trunk with rope to keep it vertical.Tie a scrap of wood in place if necessary.If the branch holds its vertical position after a year, it's time to remove the rope.Tie it up for another year.
Step 7: Pruning is limited during the late summer and early fall.
If you fertilize an evergreen late in the growing season, you might encourage new growth as the dormant season begins.In colder climates, this fragile new growth will not survive, and its death may cause more widespread damage to the evergreen tree.Pruning is only done for size or shape.You can remove dead branches at any time.The best time to fertilize evergreens is in the spring.There is a period in the summer when evergreens go semi-dormant and you can do somePruning then.
Step 8: In the spring, pinch back candles.
Pine trees have needles that grow in bunches off of candles.You can trim these candles by half or less by pinching them with your fingernails.The candles should be small enough for you to cut them with your fingers during the spring.Unless you have to, don't use pruners as they will cut through the developing needles and cause brown tips at the end of the branch.
Step 9: The stems of healthy branches should not be cut.
Pruning off the entire branches or the ends of the candles is the best way to deal with pines.You will end up with bare spots because new growth rarely occurs from the ends of half-cut pine branches.In their entirety, dead, damaged, and diseased branches should be removed.
Step 10: For the most part, leave pines alone.
Pine trees don't need your help in developing their natural shape.If space isn't an issue and there is no disease or damage to deal with, it's easiest to just let them go.If they are tightly bunched with other trees or encroaching on a structure such as your house, Prune them for width only.It is best not to cut them for height.
Step 11: To control width, Prune firs and spruces.
firs and spruces have needles all along their outer branches.These evergreens are best left unpruned under most circumstances.If bunching with other trees is a problem, or if they are too close to a structure, you can trim them annually.It is not recommended for the average homeowner to attempt to grow taller.
Step 12: In the spring, cut most or all of the way back to the original location.
You can trim back the new unbranched tips by about two-thirds if you want to slow the expansion.You can cut off the new growth all the way back to the branches if you want to keep the growth under control.When the unbranched tips are emerging, it is best to do thisPruning in early or mid-Spring.
Step 13: Shear for shaping.
If you want to control the shape of a fir or spruce, you can cut off the ends of many branches.The best time to shear is in late spring when the new growth is less fragile.Minor shape adjustments can be made through shearing, as opposed to major shape changes.If you don't, you'll end up with bare or dead spots.Before and after using handheld hedge clippers, make sure to wash them with rubbing alcohol.
Step 14: Control their size with the removal of up to two-thirds of new growth.
During the spring, evergreens grow new branches with flat needles.You can trim them for size once or twice a year, but you should leave behind at least one-third of the new growth.The needles on the new growth tend to be softer and lighter in color.It's good for the health of the evergreen to leave some new growth behind.
Step 15: Shear them for shape in the summer.
Random branch evergreens grow in less structured shapes than pines, spruces, or firs.You may want to be a bit more aggressive in shaping them.If you want, you can shear random branch evergreens several times during the spring and summer.Make sure to leave some of the new growth behind as you shear and peck for shape.Random branch evergreens don't need to be shaped if you let them grow naturally.
Step 16: They shouldn't be returned to the dead zone in the middle.
The lack of sunlight causes random branch evergreens to have no needles in the center.You will end up with a bare patch if you return to the dead zone.Instead of trying to force your evergreen into a specific look, work with what you have.Try to find the beauty in the randomness of your juniper.