A lot of people blame their battery when their machine won't start.A quick check of the entire system for corroded or cracked cables, bad connections, or rusty parts can reveal issues with the electrical system.You don't need complex machinery to make new battery cables.
Step 1: The battery, as well as all connected lines and cables, should be checked by lifting the hood.
Check which cables need to be replaced.If you know what needs to be replaced, remove any snapped, chipping, weak, or otherwise bad looking cables.
Step 2: If you don't have the same gauge of terminals, you will not be able to use them.
The number "2 / 0" should be followed by the letters "AWG" on the cable.This number should be slashed by the terminals.The gauge size is this number.The terminal may not say "AWG."You need to purchase a positive and negative terminal.If your cables don't match the battery, you can also get cable adjustors, which tighten around the cable to make it fit.The "universal" terminals should only be used as a temporary fix.
Step 3: Pick up the appropriate cable for your machine.
Different cables are needed for different machines.The general strategy is to use treated copper wire.It is necessary to usetinned strands to prevent rusting.
Step 4: Purchase a roll of solder wire.
The safest way to solder your battery connections is with rosin core wire.When exposed to electricity, acidic connections or active core wires can cause issues.
Step 5: The rosin paste of fluid should be used for the connections, not acid or active flux pastes.
This paste is too corrosive to be used with copper or tinned wire.There are companies that sell terminals that are pre- loaded with solder and flux.
Step 6: Replacement parts can be purchased from your local auto shop or hardware store.
If you don't know what to get for your car or boat, bring in the bad battery cables.If you're not sure, talk to a store clerk.To help them understand your specific motor, bring in your car's make, model, and year.You'll need: Two cable, brass or tinned Two terminal lugnuts, two terminals Solder Rosin paste or fluid Shrinkable sheathing.
Step 7: To clip the cables, use a thick pair of cable cutters.
Don't use a knife of hacksaw to saw at the cable as this will cause jagged ends of cable that are hard to work with.You can use a heavy-duty set of cutters to get through the cable.
Step 8: To expose the cable, cut away the rubber housing.
Try to only cut the rubber housing and not the strands of cable underneath.The piece attached to the battery can be used to estimate how much you should cut.Simply line it up with the cable and note how long the hole is, then cut away enough rubber so that the metal cable fits in.Don't worry if you cut too much, you will re-sheath the cables later.
Step 9: Pull off any loose or unwound strands from the cables using your fingers.
The life of your cable will be increased if you remove the stray bits.
Step 10: Take two pieces of shrink tubing from each cable and move them out of the way.
It is harder to get this on after the terminals are attached, so slide it onto the wire now and roll it out of the way.The exposed metal at the ends of your cable will be covered by one of these sheathings.
Step 11: Apply paste to the inside of the terminals.
The electrical connections between the two bits are created by the heated paste.The paste should be applied liberally with a cotton swab.
Step 12: Push the expose cable end as far as you can.
This is okay because some of the flux will squeeze out.The exposed cable needs to be fastened to the lug for now.
Step 13: A flat nail punch or a crimper can be used to crimp the terminal lug onto the cable.
The time is right to use your crimping machine.Get a flat nail punch or angle iron.To crimp the terminal into the cabling, place the punch in the center of the nut.On the other side, flip the cable.
Step 14: Once the rosin is boiling, use a flame or other high-heat source to heat the lug.
You want the whole piece to be hot.If you stand a butane torch up, turn it on, and rotation the cable in front of the flame, the whole thing will be evenly heated.The rosin starts to bubble out when you heat it.This makes soldering easier in the next step.
Step 15: Attach the cable and terminal lug with solder.
Use your non-acidic solder wire to solder the point where the terminal lug ends and the exposed cable begins.You can do this after the rosin is boiling.Allow it to cool for 1-2 minutes before proceeding.You need enough heat to liquefy the solder.
Step 16: Use the heat source to shrink the tubing around the connection, then slide it back up to cover the exposed metal.
The flat terminal lug is what connects the battery to the terminal.It's a good idea to cover the rest of the connection to prevent it from corroding.
Step 17: The terminals should be open side up.
The entire terminal is going to get very hot, and you can't attach it and crimp it down ahead of time.Attach it down so it won't move when you solder it.
Step 18: Liberally clean the inside and outside of the terminal.
The "ingredients" needed to attach the terminals are the same as those used for the lugs, though the process is a bit different.To coat the terminal and wire, use a cotton swab.You should skip this step if you bought pre-soldered terminals.
Step 19: The rosin is boiling when you heat the terminal.
You need to do this in aventilated area.You want bubbles to form quickly so you know it's boiling.
Step 20: Push the end of the cable into the terminal after preheating it.
The connection is going to be more secure if the cable and terminal are hot.
Step 21: The terminal and wire need to be sold.
Attach the edge of the terminal to the expose wire.This isn't a bad idea for added security if you have pre-soldered connections.
Step 22: If you want to clean up exposed strands of wiring, use a wire cutter.
If some strands of wire came loose when you put the cable into the terminal, take them off before you move on.
Step 23: Wrap the metal around the sheathing and heat it to shrink it.
The usable life of your battery cables will be increased by these sheathings.