Too much ground water can cause dead plants, failed crops, and stability issues in surrounding structures.The best way to dry out a large amount of dirt is to aerate it thoroughly and mix in natural amendment materials that won't disrupt its natural pH levels and composition.Lime will get the job done if you apply it heavy in a hurry.
Step 1: There are pieces of debris on the soil.
Go around the area you want to dry and pick up or relocate any rocks, brush, or other ground cover you find sitting on top of the dirt.The removal of these materials will improve the site's exposure to air and sunlight, both of which have a drying effect on wet soil.Absorbent plant matter is important to do away with.Dead leaves, old mulch, and decaying plant stalks have a tendency to hold water, which will keep your soil soggy.If you don't clear your work site first, you could inadvertently work the debris down into the soil and make the problem worse.You can enhance air circulation and access to sunlight by cutting back on sources of deep shade, such as overgrown shrubs and high branches.
Step 2: The water should be allowed to dry naturally.
If your dirt is not completely saturated, aeration will help dry it out.If there is visible puddling or pooling on the surface, you will either need to give the excess time to disappear on its own or use a different, more immediate method, such as adding organic drying amendments or lime.Once it is firm to the touch, you will know your soil is ready to aerate.It shouldn't be so soft that it loses its shape easily.Exposure to sunlight and air is important to drying out soggy soil.It is best to plan for a clear, dry stretch where no more precipitation is expected.
Step 3: For the size of your work site, choose an aeration tool that is appropriate.
For small yards and isolated patches of dirt, a basic step aerator is best.Other useful options include long-pronged gardening forks, spike rakes, and strap-on aeration shoes.The tools are easy to clean and maintain.If you need to cover more ground, you may want to invest in a motorized or manual aeration machine.
Step 4: Use your aeration tool to break up the soil.
Work your way across the site from one end to the other.If you want to get a fresh patch of untouched soil, you have to turn and go back in the opposite direction.Continue this way until you get to the point where you want to dry off.As you work, your aerator will open up a lot of small holes in the dirt to let in more air and sunlight.If you want to use a step aerator, place your full weight on the head of the tool with one foot and plunge it into the dirt.When using a rake or fork, rock the long handle back and forth to loosen the soil.If you have a pair of aeration shoes, strap them to your feet and walk back and forth across your work site.You will get a little exercise with this method.Be sure to consult the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you're using the tool safely and effectively, as operating an aerator machine is usually as easy as pushing it across your work surface like a lawn mower.
Step 5: The aerated soil needs to be kept clear for a few days.
Pick up any leftover debris that your aerator uncovered.While the elements do their thing, make an effort to keep rocks, fallen branches, deteriorated plant matter and other materials.The soil should be usable within a week if the weather stays dry.The removal of clumps of loosened dirt will allow the soil to expand and allow it to drain more completely.
Step 6: It might be harder to work if there are obstructions.
Raking up scattered brush, leaves, old mulch, and any other dense or absorbent debris is the first step.The materials block air and sunlight from entering the dirt.As a result, your soil will remain dry and wet.If you don't remove the debris, it will find its way into the soil and cause it to be more waterlogged than before.
Step 7: The dirt should be dried as much as possible.
Leave your work site undisturbed for at least 12 hours after clearing it.This will give the surrounding air and sunlight time to work on the soil before you begin improving it.It would be pointless to wait until it is completely dry as this would defeat the purpose.When it is partially dry, you will have a much easier time working your amendments into the dirt.If you have time, you can amend your soil while it is still wet.You will need to use a lot more elbow grease.
Step 8: The gravel should be spread over the surface of the soil.
Put one or more bags of pea gravel over your work site and use a shovel or rake to spread it out.Working a small amount of gravel into the soil will create some non-absorbent space between the individual particles and let more air in.Pea gravel can be found at any gardening store or in the lawn and garden aisle of your local home improvement center.If you are working with a non-clay soil type, you can use sand instead of gravel.Sand can cause clay to turn into concrete.
Step 9: The organic amendment of choice needs to be applied a 2–3 in layer.
You can put compost, humus, or another type of material directly on top of the gravel.The material should be distributed evenly over the work site.You are ready to mix the two layers of amendments into the soil.Adding gravel or sand to the dirt increases the amount of space occupied by non-nutritive components.The organic amendments will help offset the effect.If you don't plan on growing anything in the dirt you're drying, it's okay to skip this step.
Step 10: The amendments should be mixed with a shovel, rake, or hoe.
The area you want to dry should be thoroughly churned over by your implement.Your amendment materials will be incorporated into the wet soil.To get the best results, work the amendments down to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm), and make sure there are no pockets or clusters left behind.The water in the upper reaches should drain away faster once you amend the wet soil.For a few weeks or months afterwards, you will likely have less problems with retention.
Step 11: Pick up a bag of hydrated lime.
There are several types of agricultural lime, each with its own unique makeup and practical application.The best way to dry out saturated soil is to use hydrated lime or quicklime.Most major gardening stores and home improvement centers carry these products.The supplement known as "quicklime" is actually calcium oxide, while hydrated lime is more accurate.Both products have the same function, but quicklime is faster.Don't use standard agricultural lime.It won't be any more effective than drying amendments like gravel or sand because it's simply pulverized limestone.
Step 12: Take some gardening gloves with you to work.
Choose a pair of gloves that are made from a thick, durable, multi-layer material and are free of holes or excessive wear.If they come into contact with bare skin, quicklime and hydrated lime can cause severe chemical burns.It's a good idea to wear a facemask while you're at it.It is highly recommended to wear long-sleeved work clothes.If your skin is wet or damp, be careful not to touch the lime with it.
Step 13: Lime must be spread over the surface of the soil.
If you need to distribute the lime by hand, you can use a shovel.Push spreaders and pneumatic bulk trucks can be used if you are dealing with a large, open area.You want to completely dry the area.Make sure that the lime is even thickness over your entire work site.There are spots with standing water or muddy soil where you can pile on additional lime.
Step 14: Allow the lime to sit for 1-2 hours.
The excess surface water will be evaporate by the lime.This gives it an advantage over slower drying methods.
Step 15: To work the lime into the soil, use a shovel, rake, or hoe.
Chop, turn, and dig into the damp dirt to break it up and incorporate the particles of lime still sitting on top.You should mix the lime to a depth of at least 6 inches.It will dry out your soil if you get it deeper.If your work site is completely saturated, it may be necessary to work the lime as deep as 25 cm below the surface of the dirt.Within an hour of treatment, you should be able to see a significant difference in the amount of water in your soil.
Step 16: If you are going to build on the soil, compact it.
Go over the entire surface with a lawn roller or hand tamper, pressing down the treated dirt until it feels firm.Making your work site more stable will also help to hold the buried lime in place.Even after heavy rain, the soil should be relatively dry.The same effect can be achieved by walking back and forth over small patches of dirt.An industrial rolling device, such as a sheep's foot or flat wheel roller, can be used to compact large expanses.