Building a longboard is usually cheaper than buying one, and it can be a lot of fun to make your own board.You will need a bit of wood chopping ability, access to woodworking tools, a dash of creativity, and a lot of motivation to build a board.Ask a friend, a parent, or the staff at a skate shop if you need help.
Step 1: Take your materials to the deck.
You will need: Plywood or hardwood to build your deck, wood glue, Rough and fine-grained sandpaper, and 8 small screws to attach the trucks to the deck.The trucks should be fastened to the board with long screws, but not so long that they get in the way.The size of the holes in your trucks should be matched.The board can be sealed with screws or a staple-gun.The amount of screws/staples will vary greatly depending on the size of the board and the quality of your pressing mechanism.A large piece of paper and a pencil are required for drawing out your board design.It's easier for your feet to stick to the top of the board with grip tape.
Step 2: You can choose your wood.
For a cheap board, use 3-6 inch sheets.Use 7-9 plies, each about one millimeter thick.The pieces of wood will be fused together with wood glue or screws.The amount of sheets you use depends on how rigid you want your board to be.You can build a longboard from a pre-pressed deck.If you can afford it, try to find high-quality wood.Some of the popular choices are Bamboo, Birch, White Ash, and Maple.The strongest of the three will be bamboo.If you want a longer board, each piece of wood should be at least 40 inches long.Before you start to build a board, you should have a basic idea of the shape you want.You can always cut a piece of wood down to the size you need.The wood at a hardware or home-and-garden store is usually dry and better for construction than riding.It would be best to have an actual lumberyard.Even salvaged pieces of flooring can be used.
Step 3: Pick your glue.
You can find a good wood glue.Most construction and hardware stores have these products.If you have cheap wood glue, you will have a cheap board.
Step 4: You can choose your trucks.
The metal bits that attach the wheels to the board are called trucks.A longboard's feel is dependent on the right trucks.Unless the board has a tail, you will most likely want Reverse Kingpin Trucks.Standard Kingpin has better pop and stability.Double Kingpins allow for a tighter carve, but sacrifice some stability.
Step 5: Pick the wheels.
The harder the wheel is, the more it will slide.If you want to go sideways, get a higher durometer.A good slide wheel will be above 80 a durometer.Softer wheels are better for sticking tight turns.
Step 6: Pick your bearings.
Bearings allow the wheels to turn smoothly.Depending on the quality you are looking for, these range in price.Ceramic bearings cost well over a hundred dollars.A set of steel bearings can cost as little as $20.For a good entry-level bearing, check out Bones Reds.
Step 7: Cut your wood to size.
Cut the wood into strips that are about 25 cm wide by 40 cm long, and slightly longer than you want your board to be.For a longer board, leave shorter strips for a shorter board.You just need rectangular strips of plywood for now, don't worry about shaping the board.Once you press the pieces together into a solid deck, you will be able to carve out the shape of your board.
Step 8: Take out the shape of the board.
Draw a straight line as long as you want your board to be.The center of your board will be this line.Draw the shape of your board from this line.If you want your board to be symmetrical, only draw one half of the deck, then use the same outline to carve out both sides.Consider how you want to use your longboard: longer boards are better for building speed on long-distance straightaways, shorter boards can be more portable, and carving boards tend to be wider.Things should be simple if this is your first board.Since you will be steering at this end, draw a slight curve at the front and keep it wide.The board should be 1/3 of the way down from the nose.
Step 9: The shape of your board can be traced with a pencil.
Put pressure on the wood and let it dry, then carve the shape out.Make sure to trace and draw the deck you want.Make sure that each half of the board is symmetrical, unless you want it to be different.
Step 10: There are holes around the outline.
Try to make the holes slightly smaller than your screws so that you can drill the screws through them.The amount of screws and holes will vary greatly depending on the size of your board, so there is no set number that you must use.Try to fit the screw points evenly around the board shape, and consider which points on your design might require extra support to seal.Hold your pieces of plywood or hardwood in place so that they don't shift.Don't drill through the area that will become your deck by using straight holes.The holes should be one inch from the board's outline.Wait to drill the holes until the wood is cut.If you want to drill into the deck shape, be careful with the screws.
Step 11: Put the pieces of wood together.
Use a paintbrush to spread a thick layer of glue on the inner-facing side of each piece of wood.Carefully put them back together.Make sure the pre-drilled holes are still on top.Make sure the floor is protected.You don't want glue to spill on the floor if you use the pressure to push glue out of the pre-drilled holes.
Step 12: The board needs to be shaped.
The top surface of the longboard will eventually become a clean, smooth side of one piece if you stack your plywood pieces.The ends of the board should be resting on something and the middle hanging free.
Step 13: Put weights on the board.
The weights should be placed around the widest part of the board.When you stand on the board, it flattens out, so you want it to bend slightly upwards in the middle.This procedure is more of an art than anything else, so put weight on it until you like the result.For the best results, make a light curve.When the curve is set into the wood, leave the board beneath the weights.Use strong clamps instead of weights.Put the center of the board under the deck's front and back tips.
Step 14: There is a hole near the nose of the board.
Relamp the deck or put the weights back on top.Put screws around the board if you are happy with the curve.Don't glue the part between the lines.
Step 15: Make sure you are happy by checking the curve again.
Follow the directions on the bottle when you are sure.
Step 16: The screws need to be removed.
Step 17: The board press can be used to mold your deck.
If you plan to make a lot of boards, the press may be a good investment.The coffin press and vacuum press are the main types of board press.A coffin press consists of two 2x4s running along the edges of a sheet of plywood, along with one running in the middle.The sheets of plywood are connected with screws and nuts.The two 2x4s are placed on the board.Wait about 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out your shape, and you've got a deck.When you put the plies in, they are already cut into shape.The air is sucked out by the vacuum press as it presses the plies into a mold.You have a deck if you wait 24 hours with your plies in the press.You can purchase a vacuum press online.
Step 18: The shape should be put into the board.
You can find the best-looking side by grabbing one of your pieces of plywood.The board is going to be at the bottom.To find the center of the board, measure from the sides.From the front to the back, draw a line down the center of the board.Take a look at the edges of your template.Hold your template in place with something.You can flip the board over and repeat it on the other side.Your design is on the board.Make sure you like the shape by taking your stencil off the plywood.
Step 19: It's a good idea to sand everything down.
The board should be free of scratches.
Step 20: The board should be covered with a layer of varnish.
You can protect your paint with either coating.You can compare prices at hardware stores and skate shops in your area.If you are using fiberglass, mix it with the hardener at the correct proportion.Place the fiberglass cloth on the painted side and use a paintbrush to spread the resin evenly across the board.The fiberglass can be hardened in about 15 minutes.Allow it to cure for 3-4 hours after it is applied.Spread the varnish evenly across the board with a paintbrush.The coat needs to be smooth.You should let the varnish dry for 3-4 hours before building your board.
Step 21: One last time, use a very fine-grained sandpaper to sand the board down.
You can add any design you want with paint or waterproof markers.
Step 22: You should consider painting your board.
You can leave your deck plain with its natural wood, but painting or decorating the board is a great way to make it unique.To mark out your design, use electrical tape or a stencil.You can paint the deck.Use spray paint.Pick your colors, spray-paint your design onto the smooth bottom of your board, and cut out a stencil from paper or cardboard.Allow time for the paint to dry before riding the board.Use regular paint.You can sketch out a design and paint it between the lines.After you decorate the board, allow 60 minutes for the paint to dry.The wood stain can be used to paint.If you want to make a pattern with a few different shades, use three coats for the dark parts and one coat for lighter parts.Remove the tape after the stain has dried.Permanent markers can be used.Your design may be less colorful and more fragile than if you used paint, but you may find that markers give you greater control when drawing on your board.
Step 23: There is a final layer of varnish or fiberglass.
The bottom of the board will be sealed with this.Your design should be visible through the protective coating if the varnish is clear.
Step 24: The board needs to be covered with grip tape.
You can buy bulk grip tape to cover your board.The tape helps your feet stick to the board.Just like a large sticker, apply it carefully to the deck.Excess tape can be removed with a razor blade or box cutter.You can cover the entire surface with grip tape.The method will look like a standard longboard top.Use grip tape to cut up pieces.Your feet can easily grip the board surface, so make sure you cover it.The pattern should have more grip tape than empty wood space.Put clear grip tape over the top of your board to display your design.The colors and general idea of your design should shine through, even though the clear grip tape is somewhat opaque.
Step 25: If you want to ride barefoot, consider using board wax instead of grip tape.
If you plan to ride your longboard barefoot most of the time, you should use surfboard wax on the surface.You will need to reapply wax as it wears off.
Step 26: The bearings should be placed inside the wheels.
Take a bearing and push it into each wheel.There is a barrier for it to sit against, so you can't push it too far.The four wheels have a bearing inside them.
Step 27: Attach the wheels to the trucks
You can slide the wheel/bearing assembly onto the truck if you want.Put the nuts on the trucks.The nuts should be tight enough to allow for easy and free spinning of the wheels, but not so tight that they come off while skating.
Step 28: The holes need to be drilled for the trucks.
The trucks will not align correctly if they are straight.
Step 29: The trucks and wheels need to be put on the deck.
You will need the trucks to do this.The truck and the deck have something between them.When orientating your trucks, make sure that the tightening bolt faces towards the nose of the board in the front, and the loosened bolt facing the back.You can turn in the right direction when you face opposite directions.Attach the truck and spacers to the deck with 4 bolts.
Step 30: Do you like your new board?
Your board should be ready to skate when you attach your bearings, wheels, and trucks to the deck.Make sure the board holds your weight by standing on it.Try riding it down the sidewalk if it doesn't break.You should double-check the integrity of your board before you ride it on the streets or busy walkways.