There is a drainpipe in the floor of the bathroom.If the toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace it.If you lift the toilet off the flange, you can usually do it yourself, but you may want to call a professional.
Step 1: Next to the toilet, place newspapers or towels on the floor.
You can place the toilet on these if you want to.You don't have to move the toilet too far if you leave enough room to work on it.There is a chance that the bottom of the toilet will scratch the tile or the tub's finish if you place it in a nearby tub or shower stall.
Step 2: The water supply needs to be turned off.
The shutoff valve is usually located from the floor to the left or right of the toilet.To shut off the water, turn the valve clockwise.You will have to shut off the water further down the line if you fail to close the valve completely.
Step 3: Take the water out of the tank and bowl.
When the water supply is shut off, the tank won't refill unless you empty it into a bowl.To empty the bowl, flush again.To remove water from the tank and bowl, use a wet vac, turkey baster, or large sponge.
Step 4: The water supply hose should be disconnected.
This runs between the toilet tank and the shutoff valve.The underside of the toilet tank has acoupling.If you can't loosen it by hand, use a crescent wrench or pliers to turn it clockwise.If there is a small amount of water left in the hose, you can use a towel to sop it up.
Step 5: Attach the toilet to the floor with 2 nuts.
Below the bowl, you can find these to the left and right of the toilet base.If they are covered by plastic caps, just pop these off by hand.You can remove the nuts from the bolts by hand or with a wrench.A metal washer should be underneath the nut, as well as a plastic one.These should also be removed.The new toilet set should come with nuts, bolts, and washers, but you should keep them handy.
Step 6: The toilet should be moved to the newspapers or towels.
If you aren't sure you can lift it, get help.To lift it on its own, you need to straddle the bowl, bend your knees, grip the underside of the toilet, and lift straight up with your legs.To remove the bolts from the base, you need to lift the toilet straight up.Walk the toilet over to the waiting newspapers or towels.Some residual water may leak out when you do this, so have a towel handy to wipe it up.
Step 7: An old towel or T-shirt can be used to plug up the outflow pipe.
Push the towel or shirt securely into the pipe, but don't stuff it down so far or tightly that you will not be able to retrieve it later.There are unpleasant sewer gases that can be prevented by blocking the pipe.Some people wait until the old pipe is removed.By blocking it now, you can stop sewer gases earlier and prevent accidentally losing things down the pipe.
Step 8: Remove the old wax ring with a knife.
There is a wax ring on top of the toilet base.The wax ring will be discolored, but it should be easy to remove with a sturdy knife.You can wipe your knife off if you keep a newspaper or towel nearby.It is likely that the wax will come off in chunks.
Step 9: The screws that attach the flange to the floor need to be taken off.
The screws enter the floorboards through the lip.You will usually find 4 of them.The heads should be turned counterclockwise with a screwdriver.The screws that come with the kit should be kept as an emergency backup.
Step 10: If it's sealed with a gasket, remove it.
Once the screws have been removed, you will be able to lift it up from the outflow pipe.You can take a closer look at it by rinsing it under the sink and wiping it clean with a rag.If there are no cracks, chips or deformations, you can just replace it with a new wax ring.It's best to just replace it if it doesn't look good.You should always install a new wax ring if you reuse the flange.
Step 11: If you have a cast iron flange, call a plumbing professional.
If the outflow pipe is held in by a rubber gasket, there are 2 other options.It could either be made of cast iron and integrated into the outflow pipe or it could be a mixture of both.It is a good idea to call a plumbing company and have them finish the job for you.You will have to use a chisel or drill to remove the glue from the inside or outside of the pipe.You will face costly repairs if you damage the outflow pipe.You will need a chisel and rubber mallet to chip away at the lip of the old cast iron outflow pipe.Damage to the outflow pipe will be costly.
Step 12: The exposed outflow pipe has an interior diameter.
The pipe should be at least 10 cm in diameter.It's a good idea to reference this measurement when you buy the new one.This measurement is mostly used for backup purposes if you can take the old flange with you to the hardware store.If the old flange has splintered into pieces, you need this measurement.
Step 13: If you want to buy a matching one, take the old one to the hardware store.
It is possible to recreate the size and shape of the old one with a new one.You will be sure of a good fit.Ask an employee at the store for help if you can't find a good match.If you don't have the old one, you can buy a new one that matches the measurement you took.
Step 14: Purchase a new ring that fits.
Some new kits come with a wax ring, while others require you to buy the ring separately.Make sure you have a new wax ring with you.Some newer rings are rubber gasket instead of wax.You can install a rubber gasket the same way you would a wax ring.
Step 15: The included bolts should be fed into the new part.
Before final installation, remove the nut and washers from each bolt.You can feed the heads of the 2 bolts from the channels on the lip.The bolts should be positioned so that they point straight up.If you still have the old bolts, you can reuse them if you lose the new ones.
Step 16: The new pipe needs to be pushed into it.
The lip should rest flush on the floor and the neck should slide into the pipe.The back of the toilet will be at 12 o'clock if the bolts are positioned correctly.A seal against the inside of the overflow pipe can be created with a rubber gasket.The flooring is likely to be warped or damaged due to water if the lip of the flange doesn't rest flush to the floor all the way around.If you need floor repairs, you should call in a pro to do them.
Step 17: Drive screws through the lip.
The screws that came in the package should be secured with a screwdriver.You should drive the screws into the pre-cut holes in the lip.If needed, use a drill to create new pilot holes.The old holes are too large to hold the new screws.If that is the case, use a mallet to tap the plastic wall anchors into the holes and then drive the screws through the lip.Yours may have more or fewer screws.
Step 18: The towel or T-shirt should be removed from the outflow pipe.
Pick out the pieces of wax ring.The towel or shirt needs to be removed.They can fall down the pipe.Don't use this towel or shirt again, just toss it!
Step 19: Put the new wax ring in the toilet.
Press the rounded side of the wax ring over the pipe that surrounds the toilet opening.Don't bend the wax ring, press firmly all the way around.Pros prefer to apply the wax ring this way in order to get a good seal around the toilet.You can lay the ring on top of the toilet, then set it on the other side.If you use the newer type of wax ring that is actually a rubber gasket, place the toilet on top of it.
Step 20: The toilet should be on top of the flange.
Line up the holes in the toilet base with the bolts.To seal the connection, press down firmly near the back of the bowl rim when the toilet is resting.If you pressed the wax ring to the underside of the toilet, it would be the same process.
Step 21: Attach the washers and nuts to the bolts.
The first thing to do is put a plastic washer on each bolt.After that, use a crescent or sockets wrench to secure the nuts.Attach the plastic caps to the bolts by snapping them in place.You may need to trim the bolts with a hacksaw if they are too long.
Step 22: The water supply hose needs to be connected.
Attach the braided metal supply hose to the underside of the toilet tank by hand.If needed, use a crescent wrench or pliers.metal ones can be tightened with a wrench or pliers, while plastic ones are only supposed to be hand-tightened.
Step 23: The water supply needs to be turned on.
The water can be turned back on by turning the valve clockwise.The toilet tank will start to fill.Check for leaks at the connection point between the supply line and the toilet tank while the tank fills.
Step 24: If there are leaks, flush the toilet multiple times.
The base of the toilet needs to be checked.You're all set if it stays dry.If you see water coming out of the toilet, you will need to remove it.