The probability of finding a nest of baby rabbits in an urban area is higher now than it has ever been.Wild baby rabbits that are removed from their nest by humans are unlikely to survive without the care of a vet or skilled wildlife rehabilitator.Unless you are a licensed rehabilitator, it is illegal to care for wild rabbits.If you need to care for truly orphan baby rabbits while you get them to a vet, read this article.
Step 1: Make sure that the rabbits are taken care of.
A mother rabbit leaves the nest during the day to keep her animals away from her.She hasn't abandoned her babies.Leave the bunnies alone if you find a nest.You will need to take them to a vet if it is obvious that they need help.There is a white spot on the forehead of a wild cottontail rabbit.Some babies don't have a spot.Some rabbits will retain the "blaze" throughout their lives, while others will lose it as they age.The presence or absence of a fire does not indicate the bunny's age or need for care.If a baby rabbit is being removed from a dangerous situation, consider this a temporary measure.Place the baby in a quiet place until the danger has passed, then return it to the area where it was found.A mother rabbit won't reject a baby if it has human scent on it.The rabbit has the best chance of survival.If a baby has been attacked by a cat, any wounds that are contaminated with a claw or tooth will kill the baby within a few days.It needs to be taken to a vet and given a rabbit-safe antibiotic.
Step 2: If you can't help the rabbits, make a place for them to stay.
It's ideal to have a wooden or plastic box with high sides.The box should be lined with pesticide-free soil and followed by a layer of dried hay.The babies will stay in the hay if there is a circular "nest" in it.If you can, line it with fur from a pet rabbit.Don't use hair from a predator.Line the nest with tissues or soft cloths if you don't have access to rabbit fur.To keep it warm, place one end of the box on top of a hot pad, heated bed, or incubator.If the babies feel too warm, put only one side of the box on the heat.
Step 3: The rabbits should be placed inside the nest.
You can use gloves to handle rabbits.They are capable of carrying diseases and drawing blood from a bite.Most adult wild rabbits are free of fleas, but some may have a tick or two that needs to be removed.If you don't want to remove a tick, ask someone who has done it before.There are diseases that can be carried by ticks and you need to be careful with them.It is best to keep the rabbit away from people.A baby cottontail can get used to human scent.As they get older, they will return to their wild instincts.The babies should be handled as little as possible.They can die from excessive handling.Place a little of the fur, tissue, low pile plush fabric or a terry cloth washcloth on the rabbits for warmth and security.Domestic rabbits can pass diseases to wild rabbits.If you have other rabbits, use precautions when handling the wild rabbit's waste.
Step 4: There is a screen on top of the bunny box.
The rabbits will need to be covered if they can walk.They can jump at a few weeks old.The top needs to be shaded from light.
Step 5: The rabbits can sleep in the box for 3 days.
You can move them to a small room after that.
Step 6: Cottontail rabbits have closed eyes.
If a rabbit is hopping around, it may have access to fresh greens, hay and water.Older rabbits can be offered formula in a shallow dish.It is ready to be released in an area with lots of cover for this little prey animal once it is eating the greens well and hopping and running.A wild rabbit should have access to hay, water, and fresh greens in the wild.Young rabbits will eat greens and hay.
Step 7: The baby rabbits should be fed a mixture of goats milk formula.
Baby rabbits may only need to be fed twice a day, however formula is not as rich as mother's milk, so more frequent feedings are often necessary.After feeding rabbits should have a small, round belly.It is time for another feeding when the belly no longer looks round.KMR and Multi-Milk are available from the rehabilitator supply stores.If it's possible, the mixture should include the addition of Probiotics.The rabbit's milk is thicker than most other small mammals.This usually means 3 parts solids to 4 parts distilled water.If you want to warm the formula directly, warm water in a container and float it in that.There is a mini Miracle nipple attached to the eye dropper.As the bunny's capacity increases, you can use a 2.5cc syringe with small babies.The baby should be kept in a sitting position.To quickly remove milk from the nostrils, be prepared with tissue in your hand.Don't feed a baby rabbit cow's milk as that is intended for calves, not baby rabbits.
Step 8: Never feed a bunny too much.
It is a common cause of death in wild rabbits.The maximum quantity depends on the age of the bunny.Cottontail bunnies are small and should be given less than recommended.Newborn to one week old: 2 to 2.5cc/l each feeding, twice per day, less if the rabbit is small.
Step 9: At the right time, stop feeding formula.
If you give formula after 6 weeks, cottontails will wean around 3-4 weeks.After 9 weeks, replace formula with a dish of cut up bananas and apple pieces.
Step 10: Slow and be gentle.
While handling the bunnies, be very gentle and allow them to feed at their own pace.The baby could die if you try to drink too fast.
Step 11: Newborns who have not fully opened their eyes should be protected.
If the baby rabbits are so young that their eyes are partially open, it's a good idea to wrap them in a small piece of cloth so they don't scare them.
Step 12: The bunny should put the teat of the bottle in his mouth.
Carefully put the teat of the bottle in the bunny's mouth.To get the teat between the side teeth, tilt the bunny backwards.It's not possible to put the teat between their front teeth.The teat should be in between the side teeth by now.Allow a small amount of formula to come out by squeezing the bottle.The baby rabbits should start sucking within a few minutes.Continue to feed this formula for 3 to 4 days, twice per day, with the last feed being around dusk as the mother would do.
Step 13: Stimulate the bowels of newborn rabbits.
Cottontails need to be stimulated to pee and poop.This is done by gently stroking the bunny's genital and anal area with a moist q-tip or cotton ball.
Step 14: Let the bunnies eat grass.
Baby rabbits should spend a few hours on a grass lawn as soon as they can walk.They should be kept in a wire cage for protection.You may want to keep an eye on them.
Step 15: The bunnies should be allowed to eat and drink on their own.
When the bunnies are four days old or older, put a small flat container lid of water and a smaller one of formula in their enclosure.Keep an eye on the rabbits to see how they are doing.They should drink the water and eat the formula.It's a good idea to check the hutch for water.If you replace spilled formula they will eat the correct amount.In the evening and morning, refill formula and water.Don't overfeed the bunnies formula.The bunnies could drown in a dish with deep water.
Step 16: After 4 days, introduce new foods.
You can leave other treats in the rabbits' enclosure after they have mastered eating the formula and drinking the water on their own.Some things to try are fresh picked grass, small pieces of bread, and Timothy hay.
Step 17: Fresh water should be provided at all times.
There needs to be constant access to clean, fresh water.This keeps them hydrated and healthy.
Step 18: Wean the rabbits off formula.
When the rabbits are able to feed themselves on their own, wean them off of formula and allow them to do so.The rabbits should be an appropriate age for cottontails and wild Jackrabbits.
Step 19: You shouldn't be handling the bunnies.
You should stop touching the bunnies if you can because they need to be prepared for being released into the wild.They will become self-sufficient and less dependent on you.
Step 20: The bunnies should be moved outside full time.
You can put them in a wire cage outside of your home.They need to be sure that the bottom of the cage is wire, and that all the holes are small enough that they can't slip through.The bunnies will have a regular supply of new vegetation if the cage is moved to different spots in the yard.Extra vegetation will be supplied in addition to the grass.
Step 21: As the bunnies grow, move them to a larger area.
Continue to feed them all the extra veggies twice a day if you upgrade them to a bigger house on the grass.The safe for the bunnies should be secure and have an open bottom.
Step 22: The bunnies should be released into the wild.
The bunnies are big enough to be released into the wild in a safe place when they are about eight or nine inches long.Don't let them grow to maturity in captivity if they are not self-sufficient.
Step 23: Call your local office for help.
If a big rabbit can't provide for itself, call an expert.They can tell you what to do in your situation.