A chain-link fence can be used if you need to enclose a piece of land.A chain-link fence is an inexpensive way to keep you safe.Chain-link's open weave design lets people see through the fence, but still serves as a barrier to unauthorized entry.You can install a chain link fence on your own.
Step 1: Obtain any permits you need.
Fence setbacks, type, and height are regulated by your local government.If you don't have a permit, they may tear down the fence.
Step 2: Determine where your property lines are located.
The information can be obtained from city records, a line plot map, or a surveyor.
Step 3: Find the location of your utility lines.
The location of your utility lines should be marked.You don't want to hit them while digging.You can call from anywhere in the US.An employee from your local utility companies will mark your lines for free.
Step 4: Review neighborhood covenants to see if they have any restrictions on fencing.
Your town's rules regarding height and style are enforced by some neighborhood associations.
Step 5: Take a look at the property lines that border your neighbor's property.
Measure 4 inches inside the lines for your post holes.The concrete footings can't be on your neighbor's property.To make moving a wheelbarrow easier, clear the working space along the entire length of the property line.
Step 6: Take the total length of your fence and measure it.
The amount of hardware you'll need is determined by this.Post spacing guidelines can be found at your local retailer.
Step 7: You can find the terminal post location.
Use a stake or spray paint to mark the spot.Any end, corner or gate post is a terminal post.It's best to use spray paint as stakes can cause injury.
Step 8: The terminal post holes need to be dug.
Post holes should be dug 3 times the width and one-third the length of the post, with an extra 4 inches for gravel.Slope the sides so that the hole is wider at the bottom.
Step 9: Post holes should be filled with 4 inches of gravel.
The posts and concrete need a compact foundation.
Step 10: There is a terminal post in the hole.
Use a marker or chalk to mark the side of the post.The height above the line should be equal to the height of the fence mesh.
Step 11: The post needs to be trimmed.
Plumbing a post keeps your fence straight.Use a carpenter's level or plumb line to check the balance of the post.
Step 12: Place the post in the correct position.
If you want to brace the post in its plumb position, you need to use wooden stakes and ground and screws.If you want it to be even slightly out of alignment when the concrete is hardened, you need to double check all the measurements, post spacing, and height.
Step 13: Put some concrete in the hole.
Concrete can be poured around the post.To smooth the surface, sloping away from the post, use a trowel or small piece of wood.
Step 14: Continue until all of your terminal posts are installed.
Allow time for the concrete to be poured.Before putting tension on posts, allow at least 24 hours.
Step 15: You can run a string line between the terminal posts.
The string should be taut and low to the ground.
Step 16: The location of the line post is marked.
Measure and mark the exact spot with a stake or spray paint using a post spacing chart.
Step 17: Line post holes can be dug.
The line post holes should be deep and wide with sloping sides.If you want to set the height of line posts before final bracing, you can run a second, very tight line from terminal posts.
Step 18: The line post holes should be filled with gravel.
The posts and concrete need a compact foundation.
Step 19: The line post should be in the middle of the hole.
To mark the side of the post, use a marker or chalk.The height above the line should be equal to the height of the fence mesh.
Step 20: Make sure the post is plumb.
You can check to see if the post is balanced by using your carpenter's level or plumb line.Continue until the post is plumb.
Step 21: The post must be secured in the plumb position.
There are two sides to hold the post in its plumb position.To brace the post, use wooden stakes and screws.Double check that the post is straight.
Step 22: Take the concrete and pour it.
To smooth the concrete, use a trowel or small piece of wood.Water will slide away from your fence post if you create a slope in your concrete.
Step 23: Continue until your posts are installed.
Allow time for the concrete to be poured.Before putting tension on posts, allow at least 24 hours.
Step 24: There are tension bands on the posts.
The chain-link mesh is secured with tension bands.In feet, use one less tension band than the height of the fence.If the fence is 4 feet high, use 3 tension bands per post.Use 5 bands for a 6-foot fence.The tension band should face toward the outside of the fence.
Step 25: The appropriate caps should be put on the posts.
End caps are given to terminal posts.Line posts have caps for the top rail.
Step 26: Don't tighten the nuts and bolts too tightly.
Leave some time for adjustments.
Step 27: The rails should be fed through the loop caps.
Use a pipe cutter or hacksaw to cut excess length.Longer runs can be created if the rails are too short.
Step 28: The rail ends should be inserted into the terminal rail caps.
The clearance at the bottom of the rail caps may need to be adjusted to accommodate the chain link mesh height.
Step 29: The nuts and bolts should be tightened.
After checking the rails and caps, tighten the hardware.
Step 30: Add dirt to it.
Put dirt around the holes in the line post.
Step 31: A tension bar can be slid through the mesh roll.
Attach the mesh to the fence posts and rails by stiffening it.
Step 32: Attach the tension bar to one of the terminal posts.
The mesh should overlap the rail by 2.5 to 5.1 cm and be off the ground.To turn the bolt, you'll need someone to help you stand the mesh up to the end post.
Step 33: The mesh needs to be rolled.
Take out the slack by standing it up against the fence frame.
Step 34: Attach the mesh to the rail with your hands.
Fence ties can be used to hold it in place.To span the opening between the terminal posts, separate the length from the roll.
Step 35: As necessary, split the sections together.
Using a single strand of wire removed from one end of the mesh, join two sections by corkscrewing the loose strand through the end links.The correct line-up of "diamonds" may have to be provided by removing a second strand.
Step 36: There is excess mesh.
If you want to separate the mesh, untwist the top and bottom loops on one strand of wire.Until the two sections separate, remove the freed strand from the links.
Step 37: Pull the mesh with the fence.
The fence needs to be stretched so it doesn't fall.A short distance from the far end post, thread the fence puller's bar into a section of mesh.Attach the fence puller's yoke to the pull bar and connect the other end of the puller to a post.When squeezed by hand, the mesh loops move less than a quarter-inch.Pull on the mesh if it gets pulled out of shape.
Step 38: Add a second bar.
There is a second tension bar at the end of the mesh.This will allow attaching the stretched mesh to the far end post's tension bands.
Step 39: Attach a tension bar to complete your fence.
Remove the mesh with a tension bar on the post's tension bands.Remove excess produced by stretching.
Step 40: The mesh should be tied to the rails with aluminum wire.
There are 24 inches of space between the top rail and the line post for your ties.
Step 41: Add tension wire.
The mesh loops have tension wire through them.The tension wire should be tightened around the end posts.Wrap the wire around itself next to the posts.Animals can push in under the fence if tension wire is not added.