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Can you modify roof trusses?

I received an email from a reader asking me some questions.The homeowner created a spare room in his attic.There is a lot of room in the attic that could be used for a spare room.I was asked if it was okay to cut certain members and reinforce others to fit his new room.

The burning question is: can they be cut?I told him not to do anything without a consultation with a structural engineer.All manufactured wood trusses in this country are stamped by a licensed structural engineer.It's a very bad idea to cut, modify or alter a structure without the approval of the engineer of record.

Can they be cut?Maybe is the answer.It is hard to say without knowing anything about the readers house.I've seen situations where someone wants to build a room in an attic that has already been built.Building a rafter system from inside the attic is the easiest way to modify it.This is not easy and requires some input from an engineer.There are a lot of issues to consider with this type of renovation.

My recommendation is very simple.If you live in a house with engineered, manufactured trusses, don't mess with them.A licensed professional structural engineer can help you modify the framing of your attic and roof.It will be very expensive and time consuming to do this type of renovation.It is cheaper to just rip off the room and install new rafters.It raises a lot of interesting issues such as protecting your home from the elements until the new roof is built.

It is very unlikely that a local building code official would allow you to modify the structure.The plans for newer homes should be on file with most local code officials.If a structural engineer is hired to evaluate the options of modifying the existing trusses, this would be helpful.

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Don't cut anything without consulting with an architect or engineer, that's what I've done several times.It is possible, and it is a lot of work.When trying to protect from the weather, having the trusses on the 2nd floor helps.While the homeowners lived in the space below, I did this.

You can build a rafter system with a stick frame.The first thing to do is to remove the roof shingles.In between each truss, slide floor joists in along side.To 16′′ o.c.Usually.It is easy to cover the roof for the night or the weather at this point.Next, slide in some boards to use as planking over the new joists while you walk on.Electric wiring, insulation, and possibly some ductwork can be left in place if the new joists are taller than the bottom ones.

You can make room for the ridge beam with a little more cutting and exposure to the weather.It is usually not a problem to cut a bit of the trusses at this point.With the plywood already nailed to the trusses, it will act to keep the whole thing together.In certain areas, temporary bracing/blocking is important and you can't just cut with reckless abandon.If you get to a point, you can add rafters and remove the webs.The existing trusses will keep a shell to drape tarps over as you progress.

This is not a job for an amateur and requires skill and strong manpower.I hope this helps.!

Thanks for reinforcing my point.I don't want to make people abandon their dreams of remodeling but I do want them to get expert advice on advanced framing situations.

Excellent article.I like the website.I have to tell homeowners these things as a contractor.

I don't usually modify trusses, but I am a remodeler.I want to raise the house to 10 feet, but it has a 12/12 pitch and a 60 foot span.The center vertical support is identical to the one pictured in this artical._______________

I would have to cut the joist that are now the ceiling in order to gain the structural support again.It would be easier to vault the ceiling.The only good thing about this room is that it's dead center.If I go with a vault and leave the rest exposed in the room, it will be safer because a vegas would run down the center of the vault.I have not been able to find an engeneer that has the time to mess with it, so I wanted to know if you had any ideas.If any will work, here are four options.

Modifications like that should be left to a structural engineer.It is difficult to say if it is even practical without seeing photos.

Lucas is a home inspector in Virginia.Even if we see other trusses with repairs, we always write them up in need of evaluation by a structural contractor.I had a question about cutting the vertical studs.Someone made a hole in the wall to fit a duct for a heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system.Is the stud considered webbing?

My cases of gable trusses are only used for framing.If the gable truss is sheathed.

In the UK, our houses are small, so modifying roof trusses is very common for us to gain an additional room.

You talked about how we shouldn't modify our trusses after we get them.I think it would be great if we could get some help with the framing of our home.I will have to see if we can get some help with the trusses from professionals so that I don't do more harm than good to my home during our project.

I am about to do this kind of project.The engineering was reasonably priced, and my builder is very confident.The attached garage of the current home is pitched at 14-12.The plan is for the ceiling in the garage to be torn out and replaced with 16′′ 24 floor trusses.The deck is built on top of that.Then sister 212's to the existing trusses and use plywood gussets with an engineered nail pattern in place of a ridge beam.Throw in some collar ties and you're done.The space needs to be cut away.About 600 additional square feet will be created at a cost of about $52,000.I live in an area that costs $175 a foot to build, but I am way ahead of the curve.

You are creating a raftered roof so you can remove the trusses.You will have some extra space at a reasonable cost now that you have the proper help.

A reduced load could be achieved if a truss is designed for 40 PSF ground snow load.30 PSF ground snow load rating and larger bottom chord gussets allow for a larger live load?

You would have to check that with the manufacturer.It's not hard to contact them if the home is older.

I want to add a small live/dead load to my attic.My exact truss would have been built with a 26 bottom chord by the local mfg.There is plenty of space for light storage in the center of these single fink.I should be able to sister a 26 to the bottom, not cut anything, and be fine for light storage.The software indicates that this is true even with 24 chords if they were grade 2x4s.It would be easy to accomplish the needed bolster with glue-screw sistering.It is possible that the top chords also need it.I only have 14 of them.

I can't say for sure if you are correct without seeing them or the calcs.Sounds like you are on the right path.

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Can you modify roof trusses?

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